NidalM Photography / Blog / Photo With a Story / A Photo with a Story: Kingdom Tower

A Photo with a Story: Kingdom Tower

Posted by NidalM on Dec 9th, 2009 | 23 comments

A picture is worth a thousand words. But sometimes, a few extra words make a picture so much more special.

The previous few posts that I’ve done always seem to level hate towards Saudi cops. As a photographer (a marginally acceptable pastime in Saudi Arabia), run-ins with the police are frequent and seldom pleasant. But every now and then you have an experience that warms your heart. There are good, clear-headed people out there, and this story is about one of them.

It was the April of 2009, and I was in Riyadh to pick up my visa from the Egyptian Embassy for my trip later that month to cover the Egypt’s First Comedy Rumble tour. And I was incredibly bored. I had 4 hours to kill before the consular office opened, and finding something to do in Riyadh’s midday on a Saturday is an experience not very different from waterboarding.

Exhausting my options of feeding myself and slowly twiddling my thumbs, I finally decided to pick up my camera and head to the nearest landmark to take some pictures. It was a nice clear day, rare for Riyadh, which is frequently hit by dust-storms obscuring much of the city in an ugly haze. Some clouds, much sun, perfect for photography.

Those familiar with the Riyadh skyline know there’s only two landmarks of note (to a casual visitor at least). The Mamlaka tower and the Faisaliya. I chose the former as the destination for my expedition today.

Riyadh is pretty much a completely flat city except for Kingdom Towers (Mamlakah) and the Faisaliah located downtown.

After some questionable help from my GPS (thanks Nokia maps :s) and several near-death experiences on Riyadh’s roads (friggin Bedouin drivers in Grand Marquis), my car finally rolled onto the dirt parking area next to the tower. The plan was to head into the tower, which is basically a mall inside (go figure, this is Saudi), and get some nice shots of the interior.

Walking towards the Mamlaka towers, I went past a number of Humvees, complete with armed soldiers and mean looks. ‘Best not to pull out my camera here’, I thought. Some parts of Saudi Arabia resemble a war zone. But more often than not, you feel the soldiers are there more for show than for actual maintaining of stability.

Checkpoints, manned by men with heavy guns are a common sight in Saudi Arabia. Usually protecting residences of expats (compounds) or landmarks, such as the Mamlakah Mall.

As many of you might believe, photography is strictly prohibited in Saudi malls. Or is it? A royal decree enacted in 2006 allows photography in all public places. I would assume malls are included in ‘public’ places. Unsure, I carried a copy of the document to the security office inside the Mamlaka. That was a mistake.

Interestingly, the authorities had never even heard of this edict. The man in charge, obviously rattled to have actual work to do on a Saturday afternoon, flipped through the pages with utter disbelief. Unable to make a decision, he called his boss. His boss also seemed utterly confused. Soon I had been transferred to an office, standing in front of what seemed like an upper level manager.

The Kingdom mall actually is a very good-looking mall, architecturally. Lots of wide open spaces. Too bad you're not allowed to take pictures of it. This photo comes from their official website.

“Where did you get these papers?”, he asked me, accusingly.
“On the internet, it’s on the Ministry’s website”, I responded.
“You work for newspaper?”, heavily accented English again (newsbaber)
“No, I run a personal website about Saudi Arabia”
He looks me over again.

“What nationality are you?” – I groan inwardly. Saudi Arabia is incredibly racist. Apparently this was going to be a decision based on my origins, not a legal one.

“Pakistani, does that matter?”
“No, you cannot take pictures here. You need permission”, he said.
“But I have permission, from the ministry of tourism”, I countered.
“This is not a permission. This is just a paper”

Apparently its A-OK to defy a royal decree in Saudi Arabia. Not wanting to cause a fuss, I asked for my paper back and proceeded to exit the mall. Not dejectedly of course, I expected as much. This being Saudi Arabia, my mistake was asking if it was allowed. The correct procedure was, of course, to start taking pictures as if you knew exactly what you’re doing.

Walking back to my car, I noticed those soldiers on the Humvee again. They looked bored. I smiled at one. He smiled back.

Usually, people on vehicles like these would sooner put lead through you than smile at you ;P

The weather really had become amazing. Clouds were covering the sun, giving a very nice, diffused lighting covering the Mamlakah in the background. And I was at the perfect angle too. Only problem: the gunner was obscuring the view of the tower. And in front of him, a small fountain was spouting water high enough to distract the photo.

On the other hand, the gunner was still smiling at me. I quickly realized why. My camera bag was slung to the side and my equipment was visible after having being opened inside the tower.

“Msawir? [Photographer?]“, he asked in Arabic
“Aiwa! [Yes!]“, I responded.

And quickly taking my chance, I followed up with:
“Mumkin ‘sawer AlMamlakah min hina? [Can I take a picture of the mamlakah from here?]“

He smiled a bit more, looked back at the building, shrugged, and crouched in his gunners nest, giving me a perfect view of the building… except for the fountain.

“Bas Almushkila hazee [This is a problem]“ I said, pointing at the fountain.

To my utter disbelief, the soldier picks up his walkie-talkie and says something on the radio. Moments later, the fountain turns off. Shocked, but not wanting to waste time by asking questions, I pulled out my camera and dropped into a crouch. Click.

The time-honored photographers' tradition of crouching to take a photo. Theres some good physics behind this, the wider placement of legs and less height lowers your center of gravity and makes you more stable.

I waved at the soldier, thanked him, and walked back to my car. Say what you want about Saudi bureaucracy. There’s some really good people out there

See it BIG

And the result. Riyadh's Kingdom Tower on a cloudy day. Single exposure tone-mapped to bring out details.

As I walked away, I heard the fountain turn back on.

Tags: kingdom towers, mamlaka, riyadh, saudi arabia

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http://www.facebook.com/shibinss shibin

what a story…. nice reading it… especially ““What nationality are you?” – I groan inwardly. Saudi Arabia is incredibly racist. Apparently this was going to be a decision based on my origins, not a legal one. “Pakistani, does that matter?” “No, you cannot take pictures here. You need permission”, he said.”" LOOOL hindi, pakistani, bengaldeshi, srilankan, and few comes in this cattagori :p this happend to me too when i was in my primary school ! i was fasinated by inteirors and awsom buildings like mumlaka, but what to do, here we need more papers, and permission than what we call human rights , unfortunatly, i dont think human rights are there in KSA :p last week one of my freinds asked to a Police offical “ana mafi insaan” just because he was treatting all in a bad way as if the guy is some KING …… ur reports are awsom bro, keep going
Chiara

Nice photo and story. A very “awwww” moment. It is great to be able to visualize a checkpoint. Hmmm malls, shopping…I'm having Hong Kong flashbacks and they aren't fun. Not being a mall person, and a “buy it all at once” type of shopper (making me look manic to the untrained eye), Riyadh especially would be a challenge (outside haze, flat…inside mall architecture)! LOL
Bin

Malls wouldn't be considered public space, otherwise, the Mutuwwa's would be roaming through!
Bin

Malls wouldn't be considered public space, otherwise, the Mutuwwa's would be roaming through!
http://www.driedpages.wordpress.com/ HishMaj

That was one 'awww'ing story. Having lived in one of the compounds in Jeddah for years, I always found the military guys to be more cooperative than the compound security/police. Maybe because they are trained to combat terrorism and that minor pity issues like these are worth ignoring than make a fuss.
http://precognitive.wordpress.com/ Qusay

Man, and here I am thinking that the “document” was a recognized document, a license to shoot, if you will… turns out it isn't
U know what, I'm thinking of conducting my own experience…. no wait… here is my story, well, my brother's story/stories.

As an Architect, my brother had to take pictures of buildings and landscapes when he was a student… now, apparently there is this license that needs to be obtained from I do not know what department… and even when they have that legal document, they are still harassed and told not to take pictures and it is forbidden and all that sweet stuff… the license needs to be renewed yearly, and they never bother to renew it, since the harassment is the same… so they learn to shoot really fast, and go… none of that set the tripod up and set aperture and shutter speed and all that

He once wanted a map of some open market, which was hanging on the walls everywhere, and they told him NO, so he looked all cool at them, took a picture of the map, and started walking… they lazy ass that said NO just kept shouting hey come back come back…

I believe there is a word that describes this situation… power complex or something… they have no power, it is perfectly legal, but the poor guy has to feel like he has some sort of power over a given situation.

I'm going to make sure I wear a thoub and ghutra and carry some official looking card around my neck… and pretend to be talking on the phone to some high level official when they come near me
http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

Thanks dude And thanks for stopping by!

The inherent racism in Saudi culture is of course a systematic form of racism, not the extreme type you might find in other places. Even government owned companies *cough* Aramco *cough* have regulations for each level of their employees and the salary ranges they can get. And these are hard, on paper, regulations.

Kindof sad
http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

Mutawwas *are* roaming through
Chiara

Only in Saudi can “lived in one of the compounds” be possibly construed as a positive thing. Must remember that if I ever do a medical interview of someone referring to Saudi so I don't express empathy for their prior miserable compound existence. LOL
Chiara

Or go as Crocodile Dundee!
Chiara

Been escorted have you? (See Susie's latest Jeddah Daily Photo Journal “No Boys Allowed”
http://susieofarabia.wordpress.com/2009/12/10/n… )
http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

Power complex sounds about right. Why else would people try to enforce rules they dont know exist.

The document is a recognized one: http://nidalm.com/downloads/KSA_photography_dec…

Just act like you're a big shot and know what you're doing and you can get away with anything around here
http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

The 'trick' to get away from Mutawwas is to act totally expat and talk in American (or the Queen's!) English. Since Americans are in no way womanizers, you will be free to continue ;P
Chiara

True, Americans are not the womanizers that others can be…which is why, oh never mind. Too much information! LOL
Chiara

How about, “person with very little education, very low on the totem pole BUT with some sort of uniform, badge, title, or inservice training needing to feel important” complex. Beware anyone who has done a competitive exam no matter how lowly, to get their job, no matter how small, eg. French telephone operator. Now there is a serious power trip!
http://www.relativityonline.com/ David Anthony Hohol

Your pictures are wonderful and your accompanying words are as well. I love both photography and writing myself…. The inherent bigotry in the Gulf (I live in Dubai) is integrally connected to the slave culture and unoffcially official caste system that results. Most locals have a maid or two plus a driver due to the fact that a staff of three can cost as little as a few hundred US dollars a month. There are also different “minimum” wages for maids with Indians being paid less than Philippinos for example. What a world…
http://www.chezchiara.com/ Chiara

More stories: my new website is up:
http://www.chezchiara.com

and your double post is there too:
http://www.chezchiara.com/2009/12/desis-multicu…
http://www.chezchiara.com/2009/12/desis-multicu…

They are now virginal–regarding comments that is! LOL

Just thought you and your fans should know.

All are welcome to visit, and comment!
http://www.chezchiara.com/ Chiara

Correction, my new blog Chez Chiara is up. I am but a humble blog owner. LOL
Oh, and you have to put the www in or the URL doesn't work (still trying to sort that out).
http://halfthedeen.blogspot.com/ Single4now

Haw, I know people who've worked there!
http://halfthedeen.blogspot.com/ Single4now

Nice! Again, makes me glad I don't live in Saudi. I have always carried a camera with me where ever I go. Including hajj and they really check you there. I escaped everytime. Phew. But I hate the feeling that I'll be caught. I mean, all I want is to snap a picture of the Holy Kabaa and me. As it is they broadcast the pics during hajj and Ramadan. I don't get what the big deal is.

The “sawer” reminded me that I used to use the word “soora” (picture) for an x-ray with Arab patients. Now I forgot what the proper word was.
http://www.rys-raziel.blogspot.com/ Ren_crow

Some things will never change.
Jjiggerboi

Great story Nidal.

Would it be ok if you can email me a copy of that Royal Decree lifting the ban on photography in Saudi? I may go there for a couple of weeks and that may come handy.

Thanks…. email it at jiggerboi@aol.com
Valerieann

Very interesting story: and the pictures are great.