NidalM Photography  /  Blog  /  Travelography  /  Guests of the Emir

Guests of the Emir

If you read the previous post, Climbing Bin Huwayl, you remember that our expedition could definitely gone a little better. Tired, exhausted and delirious as we were, things could’ve been a lot more difficult had we not happened upon a hunter in the mountains who led us back to camp. The hunter, as it turns out, was no normal bedouin. He owned the entire valley. Or at least, his father did. The Emir of Turaif.

Now to avoid confusion, the title Emir does not necessarily mean prince, as most people may be accustomed to. In this case, Emir means General (of an army).

We thanked Ayman profusely for getting us out of our predicament as we reached camp, but as it turns out, we completely underestimated the hospitality and magnanimity of the Emir. He invited us to visit his home, in the town outside the valley. And he would not take no for an answer.

See it BIG
Make it small

Before leaving, Ayman bin Muhammad, the hunter, left us with a number to call before heading out of the valley so he could direct us to his father's place. No, dont bother calling it, theres a digit missing there somewhere ; )

As it turned out, we didn't even have cell coverage in the valley. Theres little we could have done to get in touch with the Emir or Aymen at theat point. We just decided to head out...

Offroading in the rocky valley can be ver bumpy. And by bumpy I mean enough to jar your brains into liquification. Though this was our only way out : (

As it turns out, no phones were needed. The Emir had sent Ayman to wait for us outside the valley since early morning. He insisted we come see the Emir!

Note to self: Never again think of turning down an invitation from the Emir...! This is the room that greeted us when we made our way into the Emir's home.

The Emir's father, the original Emir of Turaif, had participated alongside King AbdulAziz in military campaigns. A showcase in the guest room displays a number of old weapons he gathered during the time.

The Emir called this rifle a "British Gun". it bears a manufacturing date of 1894 from a factory in Austria. It had some decent weight on it! Steyr AUG exists to this day and is a manufacturer of guns and munitions.

And this sword belonged to King AbdulAziz himself. The scabbard is marked with various symbols and seals.

I proceeded to horse around with the royal sword. King AbdulAziz would be proud ;P

A fire crackled in the fireplace at one end of the room, where the Emir himself was busy preparing tea and coffee for his guests.

A commonplace in most Saudi gatherings. Bukhoor chips are put into a burner and lit so incense can fill the room.

The burner is passed around the room, as tradition dictates.

And thats when the storytelling began. The Emir (on the left) told us the story of his family line. Of their campaigns with King AbdulAziz and how his family was given the valley after them.

Boo! Haha scared ya ;P I loved listening to the Emir speak. Though most of it was in Arabic, me and Hasan had little difficulty understanding and translating for the rest of the rovers.

Standing in front of mountain goats he's hunted.

Sadly though, we couldn't stay for long. We still had to offroad through the dunes to the nearest highway. One final groupshot, as the Emir asked is to let him know of the next time we would be in the area so he could arrange a proper feast !



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  • http://www.chezchiara.com/ Chiara

    Outstanding experience and retelling. How wonderful that the Emir wished to share so much of his heritage with you. I am assuming he was the General of his tribe's army, as opposed to a standing army, ie a tribal one that would be requisitioned as needed by the King. Very impressive!

    Yes Nidal, I'm sure the King would be very proud of your swordsmanship, and I am just going to leave all double entendres out of it! LOL :)

  • http://twitter.com/ArabicRihanna Arabic Rihanna

    There were girls in your trip!
    Girls!
    LIAR!

  • http://twitter.com/Hafuusa Hafsa

    LOL at you with the sword, hope you didn't cut anyone :)

  • http://qusaytoday.com/en Qusay

    Yes, the hospitality of the people is something that is underestimated.

    I do not know why I this came to mind when I saw the sword, the crocodile dundee's line in the movie “that's not a knife… this is a knife!” It is a bit small for a sword IMO.

    Glad u enjoyed it… and I thought u said there were no women with u guys? with the whole nipple mountain jokes and all… I thought I say a couple of ladies in the pics.

  • Farrah

    I absolutely loved this article. I've just finished reading a book by Lesley Hazelton where she depicted life during and after the Prophet's time, and your story, especially with the help of the photos, has made hers come to life in in my mind.

  • http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

    I suspect the title is mainly ceremonial, but there is no doubt that he would be the leader of his tribe. I thought I was pretty nice about the double entendres in this post :P Perhaps I should reconsider in the next one? :D

  • http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

    It is very possible the sword was mainly for ceremonial purposes. I think it unlikely the king actually drew it to use. I mean, if you're not going to stab someone, size *doesn't* really matter does it? ;P

    Women were wives of a couple of the guys there :)

  • http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

    Thanks for stopping by Farrah :) I'm glad my pictures could provide visualizations for the book, which I assume is her recent “After the Prophet”? I haven't gotten around to reading it, would you recommend it?

  • http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

    Nah, I'm generally a pacifist :P Couldn't hurt a fly :)

    I do shoot a lot of things though.. with my camera :P

  • http://www.nidalm.com/blog/ NidalM

    *gasps* No, I'd NEVER!

  • http://www.chezchiara.com/ Chiara

    Yes, ie during a battle in his younger days he was a leader, and now as an elder.

    Your sword, your entendre…and that's all I'm saying :) :P

  • http://www.chezchiara.com/ Chiara

    My XX chromosomal composition obliges me to ask–did the Emir segregate the women or not? What was their experience of the visit? Did they have a different name for Nipple Mountain? or just celebrate superior nipplehood? (sorry about the medico-political terminology)? :)

  • Farrah

    I would recommend 'After the Prophet' to all Muslims. It describes the events leading up to the Prophet's death and what took place in the following years.

    It is odd that fate had my life be at a standstill these past few weeks, thus giving me time to read with such concentration. Also that I be in Saudi with all these Arabic channels lamenting the very events I was reading about. Then having stumbled upon your article and photos to clarify the setting even further.

    It makes you take a step back and examine how you are living your life, and to what ultimate purpose.

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  • http://nsahmed.wordpress.com/ Nabeel

    great stuff Nidal!

    i spent a few hours lusting after old rangefinders yesterday…sigh.

  • susanne430

    Wow you have some great experiences! I really enjoyed this!

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