The Ruins of Old Muwaih

Since ancient times, the area know known as Saudi Arabia has had two major trade routes. One connecting Damascus in now Syria to Makkah (and further south) along the coast. The other one connecting Eastern and Western Saudi Arabia, leading from Makkah, through Ta’if to Riyadh and the Eastern Province.

Muwaih is located on the latter route almost halfway between Ta’if and Riyadh. Because of the relative lawlessness of the desert wilderness at the times, caravans would travel from shelter to shelter. And Muwaih, was an ideal stopping point, due to its location along the trade route and the safety of a nearby Turkish garrison and supporting watchtowers. In it’s heyday, Muwaih would have been a vibrant town, frequented by travelers and traders.

The change in the political climate, however, did not bode well for Muwaih. With the unification of East and West Saudi Arabia, the trade routes had become considerably safer, allowing caravans to become less and less reliant on soldiers and watchtowers. The final blow to the town occurred when Saudi Arabia’s main highway was built… several dozen south of the town. Cut off from its main source income, the locals decided to leave and build a new town (also called Muwaih), next to the highway.

Today, Old Muwaih can be reached by taking the exit from the Jeddah-Riyadh highway into “New” Muwaih and going north for a few kilometers. The Ministry of tourism is currently paving a road directly to “Old” Muwaih, however at present (July 2009), the last 15km or so will need to be offroaded.

1/250s @ 160mm (Canon 70-200mm), f/11 ISO100

Dust Devils are a common sight while offroading the deserts around Muwaih. Generally safe, these ‘mini-whirlwinds’ offer little danger other than slight discomfort.

Nearly untouched, Muwaih offers some of the most breathtaking views of ancient Arabian cities.

1/200s @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/10 ISO100

A ruined watchtower on a hill overlooking Muwaih. Before Saudi Arabia’s unification, the deserts were rife with factional disagreements and infighting between tribes, making the need for securing trade routes necessary.

1/500s @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/7.1 ISO100

A view from the watchtower. Muwaih would have been considered a rather large town for its time.

Single Exposure HDR, 1/200s @ 50mm (Canon 50mm), f/9 ISO100

The ravages of time have not been kind to Muwaih. The buildings lie crumbling, and the once major trading hub has been reduced to a ghost town.

1/1000s @ 14mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/5.6 ISO400

The city’s mosque, probably the first stop for weary travelers, has aged remarkably well. The minaret remains intact to this day and visitors can climb up the stairs to the top for a spectacular view of Muwaih.

1/250s @ 20mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/9 ISO100

A little bit of an oddity. We found what looked like a kettle that had been flattened.

The Fortress of Muwaih

With the disbanding of the garrison protecting the trade route, the fortress of Muwaih fell into disuse. But not for long. The Saudi Royal family occupied the building and King AbdulAziz would use the fort as a hunting lodge for expeditions out in the desert. Over the years, the desert conditions deteriorated the walls of the fortress, causing it, again, to be unused for a time. Recently however, the government has taken steps to restore the building and has renovated (and in some cases improved) the military-turned-recreation structure.

It is very possible that the government plans to allow tourists into the fortress once the road and renovation works are completed. This photographer, however, got a sneak peek into whats there to see.

Single Exposure HDR, 1/250s @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/9 ISO100

While I would have loved to see the ruins of the fortress, the government seems to be doing a good job at managing the restoration. Beware though, until it is officially opened, the dark nooks and crannies of the buildings house a number of creepy crawlies.

1/320s @ 11mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/8 ISO100

Construction work is still ongoing at the site, however, the man looking after the site was very helpful in letting us in and showing us around!

1/15s @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/5 ISO200

King AbdulAziz would have spent some time in these halls in between hunting trips out in the desert.

1/80s @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/8 ISO100

The fortress well. The most valuable resource an army has in the desert is its water. And the Turks did well housing one within the fortress walls.

1/500s @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20mm), f/4 ISO100

This strange vehicle looks to be the remnant of a small tank or jeep of some kind. Would appreciate it if someone could identify what it actually is! Maybe its not really that old!

Saying goodbye to the kind man who let us into the fortress, and driving away from the ruins of the once great town, one cant help but wonder about how time affects us. Our cities are alive and busy now, but will inevitably one day be deserted. We are young and fit now, but will inevitably become old and wrinkled… Kind of a sad thought. But as the old withers away, the new takes over. Passing through ‘New’ Muwaih for supplies, I realized how the change to these people came for the better. By moving to the highway they have maintained their culture as a waystation between a major transportation route. Similarly, as we pass on, our children will remain to carry on our legacy…

Theres more! Click Here to see all articles on the photohike in Western Saudi Arabia.

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