Since ancient times, the area know known as Saudi Arabia has had two major trade routes. One connecting Damascus in now Syria to Makkah (and further south) along the coast. The other one connecting Eastern and Western Saudi Arabia, leading from Makkah, through Ta’if to Riyadh and the Eastern Province.
Muwaih is located on the latter route almost halfway between Ta’if and Riyadh. Because of the relative lawlessness of the desert wilderness at the times, caravans would travel from shelter to shelter. And Muwaih, was an ideal stopping point, due to its location along the trade route and the safety of a nearby Turkish garrison and supporting watchtowers. In it’s heyday, Muwaih would have been a vibrant town, frequented by travelers and traders.
The change in the political climate, however, did not bode well for Muwaih. With the unification of East and West Saudi Arabia, the trade routes had become considerably safer, allowing caravans to become less and less reliant on soldiers and watchtowers. The final blow to the town occurred when Saudi Arabia’s main highway was built… several dozen south of the town. Cut off from its main source income, the locals decided to leave and build a new town (also called Muwaih), next to the highway.
Today, Old Muwaih can be reached by taking the exit from the Jeddah-Riyadh highway into “New” Muwaih and going north for a few kilometers. The Ministry of tourism is currently paving a road directly to “Old” Muwaih, however at present (July 2009), the last 15km or so will need to be offroaded.
Nearly untouched, Muwaih offers some of the most breathtaking views of ancient Arabian cities.
With the disbanding of the garrison protecting the trade route, the fortress of Muwaih fell into disuse. But not for long. The Saudi Royal family occupied the building and King AbdulAziz would use the fort as a hunting lodge for expeditions out in the desert. Over the years, the desert conditions deteriorated the walls of the fortress, causing it, again, to be unused for a time. Recently however, the government has taken steps to restore the building and has renovated (and in some cases improved) the military-turned-recreation structure.
It is very possible that the government plans to allow tourists into the fortress once the road and renovation works are completed. This photographer, however, got a sneak peek into whats there to see.
Saying goodbye to the kind man who let us into the fortress, and driving away from the ruins of the once great town, one cant help but wonder about how time affects us. Our cities are alive and busy now, but will inevitably one day be deserted. We are young and fit now, but will inevitably become old and wrinkled… Kind of a sad thought. But as the old withers away, the new takes over. Passing through ‘New’ Muwaih for supplies, I realized how the change to these people came for the better. By moving to the highway they have maintained their culture as a waystation between a major transportation route. Similarly, as we pass on, our children will remain to carry on our legacy…
Theres more! Click Here to see all articles on the photohike in Western Saudi Arabia.
These dust devils are interesting concepts as they seem to mimick the waterless tornados of the West, …. ofcourse 1000 times less than real tornado too.
I guess Abdullah, the emotional factor (sad or happy thought) may also depend upon one’s perspective. Referring to the “We are young and fit now, but will inevitably become old and wrinkled… Kind of a sad thought.” , if you look at it as wrinkles are lines that, not just reveal age, but also tell a story and add layers to enhance the beauty of maturity (like the trunk of an ancient tree), you may catch an altogether different type of beauty! Coupled with your amazing photography skills and talented eye for catching grace and beauty, you might surprise us all.
Just a thought ….
Hi there; very beautiful pix.
As for the last picture (idenfication of the vehicle), my guess would be that of an old (1965-1970) dodge or ford pickup truck (picture is upside down with the closet presenting part as the rear axle of the car)
Sky (hehe
), thank you soo much
Alija, the tires did seem pretty big for a pickup.. they were upto just under my shoulder I think in height… maybe thats how big offroader were back in the disco days? ;P
Well, the thought of me identifying any vehicle, except by colour, would cripple with laughter those who know me, but I second that the tires are way to big for a pickup, even a “modified” one. The bumper is also suspiciously large, so in the absence of colour coding (the blue car, the red one, etc), I’m going with large jeep, since in my vast tank knowledge I don’t recall any with tires like that–unless there is more than one cadavre here?
Stunning photos, and helpful entertaining captions! That crenelated fortress tower has me planning a trip!
Hi – we just got back from doing this trip (and Wabha Crater) – absolutely fabulous. We did it 4X4 style and camped along the way (like you did) and then found the road….. the old man looking after the Lodge was fabulous and very nice. We didn't know what the vehicle inside the lodge was either. However, we went down Wabha Crater from the palm grove and it was a 3 1/2 hour round trip with 2 2L water packs/camel packs that ONLY just lasted us to the top of the grove on the way back. I wish more people would go and experience Saudi Arabia like we see it.